Thursday, 20 December 2007

Just in the Nic(aragua) of time

Leaving the guys at the airport, we headed to the bus station only to be told that the next bus to Nicaragua was either in three days, or Christmas day. However by hanging around and looking lost we managed to get last minute replacement seats on an international bus! Lucky Lucky!

Crossing the border through to Nicaragua was an interesting gameshow experience with the use of the traffic light system of checking bags, instead of checking everyone, each passenger presses a large button and if the massive light goes green you don't get checked, if it goes red you have to open up your bags. We both got green lights - WINNERS!



We got off the bus at the surfer town of San Juan del Sur. Full of "USA dudes" this little backwater town on the coast sucked us in for a couple of days in the baking Pacific heat, walking around the headland and taking time to enjoy a beer with one of the most amazing sunsets we have ever seen.

Saturday, 1 December 2007

Pura Vida in Costa Rica with Slothboy and the Wolf


Now in Central America and have met up with Adam and Mike. As there are four of us we have split the cost of a 4x4 and are enjoying the lack of paving and dangerous driving of Costa Rica.

First up, we took some time to get to grips with San Jose, being a hot spot for American tourism, Costa Rica is full of McDonalds, Subways and Taco Bell, so no culture here to worry about. When Mike and Adam arrived we made sure to greet them at the airport and indoctrinate them into the travelling vibe by equipping them with special travelling outfits, a cool T-shirt for Mike (Wolf) and some groovy travelling tie dye trousers and bum bag for Adam.


Thanks to some airline miscommunication Adam's bag was left in London so we spent an extra day in San Jose & visited Volcan Poas (with a detour to pick up a sat nav, one of the most essential pieces of equipment for Costa Rica where signage is always after the junction, handy if you want to know that you have just missed your turning). The Volcano was "awesome" and we luckly got to see it belching smoke.


After a night with some Californian dudes "NO WAY MAN" we hit the road towards Monteverde Cloud Forest. Thanking God for GPS we manged to cruise through the amazing scenery of Costa Rica and find the town. Picking up a random raver to make the journey more entertaining (Vix from Wales) we found some accomodation and while Lisa and Adam explored the bars, Mike and Mikee went in search of animals in the jungle at night.
Getting up for a day of excitement we first went to Sky Trek, a series of hig wire canopy zip lines, the longest of which being over a kilometer long, thrilling (thanks Ed)! We then went on a tour of the cloud forest along some suspension bridges but managed to see nothing more than forests of trees. At the end of the walk however there were a bunch of humming bird feeders which were quite something to watch with lots of humming birds zipping around us.

Getting into the Rav4 we sped up the road a full 16km, which took the best part of 3 hours thanks to the track being what would be called 'extreme off road' in any other country - bumpy and entertaining all the way, even the GPS got a bit lost but we manged to get to Volcano Arenal which was covered in cloud. Luckly there was the largest hot spring complex to explore (with over 30 pools and bars in some of them), after trying out all the pools (including the 68 degree pool which just cooks you) we got some American size portions of dinner and headed back to the hotel feeling a little weary (thank-you Becca & Mark for our hot springs).

On arrival at the hotel Mike (Wolf) spotted the top of the volcano as the cloud was lifting and the red glow motivated us to head around to the other side to see if we could see some lava flowing from this live monster. After 15 minutes of driving we were rewarded with the sight of the volcano spilling lava down its slopes at high velocity. "Awesome"!



Wanting to make the most of the time we had we took a quick swim in the pool and got in the car to head for Tamarindo (surfer beach on the Pacific coast). Getting frustrated at the lack of progress on the one lane "Pan American Highway" Mikee decided to overtake with much encouragement from the whole car "at last some clear road, oh that looks like a police man". Apparently the speed limit in Costa Rica is 80kph, NOT 130kph. A lesson which cost us $40.

Tamerindo was torrential rain so we befriended a Swiss couple who promptly bought us all pizza and rum! First though, Lisa met her twin from California (try and figure out which one is Lisa below). The next day was for chilling by the beach watching the surfers. Before heading off the next day to an amazing shell beach for snorkelling and monkey watching.
Montezuma, is a hippy paradise on the Nicoya Peninsula. With miles of beaches and only one lively bar. After a few beers we joined some hippies for some drum bashing and star gazing around a fire on the beach - about as chilled out as it gets! Lisa managed to see 12 shooting stars, (a new record).

The next day we took a speed boat to Tortuga Island for a day of snorkelling, sunbathing and a delicious beach BBQ (thanks to the Baird family for this brilliant trip), which set us up for another late night of drinking & ragaton music in the lively bar.

Our final morning in Montezuma was spent walking to the waterfall, 30meters high with a natural swimming pool at the base it was only right that one of mikes flip flops be sacrificed to the stream making the walk a delicate operation.

Leaving Montezuma we went to catch the ferry back to San Jose (do you know the way?), unfortunately the timing was not great as everyone else headed back to the capital too. The wait was over 3 hours meaning a late arrival back at the hotel. Luckly Mike managed to phone ahead and (IN SPANISH) inform the hotel manager to book us all on a rafting trip for the next morning!

Rafting: Getting up at 6am for the transfer to the Pacuare river tired yet excited we headed out for a day of class 3-4 whitewater rafting. Stopping only for some lunch and to pick Lisa and Wolf out of the river after they popped out of the raft in the rapids, we finally understood why it is called rainforest, but being soaked didn't stop us loving the float along in the jungle. (Pics to follow when Wolf uploads them!). Thanks KT & Mark for this adventure!

Getting back to San Jose we had a traditional meal of KFC and hit the hay to get ready for the last leg of the Costa Rica holiday - the Carribean cost.

With a more laid back vide and less American tourists we sat back and enjoyed the last few days of Carribean sunshine with fantastic iced coffees, cool hotel pool, reagge music and tropical beaches lined with rainforests for hiking through. Adam found an affinity with the Costa Rican Sloth, kindred spirits indeed.

Negotiating one of the most dangerous roads in Central America (at night, not a good idea if it can be helped) we made it back to San Jose in time to pack and get ourselves to a middle eastern restraunt for some excellent kebab and hooka pipe smoking, the perfect end to a fun 2 weeks.

(more pictures to follow once the Wolf uploads his snaps).

Wednesday, 28 November 2007

Quit(o)ing South America

For our last three days in South America we decided to take the plunge and have some Spanish classes. Our Spanish teacher (Jaqui, see middle below) was excellent and we both now speak fluent Spanish (many thanks to the Baird family).




Quito was a fun city due to the annual "founding of Quito" celebrations, leading to marching bands and lots of activity.

As the curtain came down on our explorations through South America we enjoyed some cerviche (the national dish of Ecuador, a cold fish snack made with chilli and limes, delicious http://tinyurl.com/2budc9) and home made sorbet from the oldest ice cream shop in Ecuador.

Saying our last (Spanish) farewells to South America we took the plane to another continent vowing to come back and check out the countries we missed at a yet to be decided date...

Galapa-geekos

For our final couple of days we caught up with the rest of the attractions on Santa Cruz, huge lava tunnels to walk through, giant tortoise in the wild and a visit to the beautiful beach of Tortuga Bay with fine white sand and rolling surf.


In summary an amazing place with the friendliest wildlife on the planet highly recommended to anyone planning a holiday. Just bear in mind the place is absolutley teeming with photography and naturalist geeks (and many fat americans). Ugh!


Muchas Gracias to Jonny and Brigs for the park entrance to a trip we will never forget.

Cruising - Santa Fe & Santiago Island

Santa Fe Island is home to a huge cactus forest, but whilst it's flora was quite inhospitable, the animals were lovely! The sea lions here were great posers & didn't mind us even taking a lie down next to them (if you don't mind the barking, smelly breath when they woke up!).



Next day commenced with snorkelling at the "Chinese Sombrero", a volcano next to Santiago Island. We were most excited when we swam with the marine igunanas & watched them tearing away at the algae on the rocks (seriously pre-historic looking!). On land we saw lava tunnels & lizards.

Another landing spot, Puerto Egas, was where we watched a sea lion catching dinner (massive silver fish which it just attacked ferociously). Then peeking in the lava formed sea caves we came across an orgy of marine iguanas!

The most unusual landscape of the entire trip was found at James Bay where the volcano here errupted just 120 years ago & life on the land is yet to return. In its place were amazing lava rock formations, a perfect place if you were shooting a sci-fi movie...


Bartholome was one of our final destinations, this is where the standard Galapagos postcard shot is taken (see below). But also where we were lucky enough to swim & hang out with (very very cute) penguins!

Before heading back to port on our last day we went to a beach/lagoon where flamingoes hung out - a very chilled out place to end this fantastic trip.

Seymour Island and Las Plazas

After the delights of Isabella we spent a few days taking first class luxury boat trips to some un-inhabited islands (thanks a million Uncle Michael & Auntie Jacinta).


Seymour Island
Saw loads of amazing birds... got up close to the blue footed boobies & we were lucky enough to witness their mating dance (very similar to Mike whistling/dancing in blue flippers, with arms outstretched). Saw lots of frigates, also ready to mate, displaying their red balloon-like chests.
After a gourmet lunch we went snorkelling with more sharks & this time mantra rays!







Las Plazas Island
Early morning we snorkelled in crystal clear water with more friendly sea lions & a multitude of tropical fish. Then onto land where we saw at least ten plus sea lion colonies. Needless to say it was pretty stinky, but well worth it as we got close to many baby sea lions (sooo cute, they yelp like little lambs!).


Isabella Island

Taking a rough high speed boat over to Isabella Island we checked into a cool apartment overlooking a secluded beach. We found a cosy little beach bar where despite fancying a G&T, decided to order something more Southern American in flavour... why not a caipirinha? This resulted in a clueless barmaid making me the most disgusting cocktail ever - a large rum with creme de menthe (no limes or sugar & why minty??!), really gross!

The following morning we hired bikes & followed the trail to the Giant Tortoise Breading Sanctuary where we had another mini photo-shoot with these amazing creatures.


Next stop was the Playa d'Amor - a beautiful beach, perfect for honeymooners wanting a swim... anyway, moving on it was time to bike to the Wall of Tears (built by convicts).


One of the highlights of this island was the snorkelling trip to Las Tintorerras, where we swam inches over seven white tipped reef sharks (yes Mike pooed it!).


Back to the beach next to the apartment & fun was had swimming with some friendly sea lions...